Sunday, September 11, 2011

Inside the Mind of an Instinctive Cook

I keep coming back to the idea of what it means to be an instinctive cook rather than one who simply follows a recipe. I have many friends who produce very good food by scrupulously following recipes, but they actually have no idea what they're doing other than being good technicians. Very often, when I'm part of a larger crowd than my immediate group of friends, someone will praise a dish and ask for the recipe. But instinctive cooks have a general idea just from having tasted something of how it was made, and can then try it at home and make it their own. I urge you to try to break out of recipe dependence and instead to get in touch with your ingredients and your mood and the season of the year, and just cook.

I am fortunate to have among my close circle of friends many excellent cooks, but the most instinctive cook I know is my friend Yaakov. His late mother was reputed to be the best cook in the neighborhood, and this instinct was passed along to Yaakov and his sister Rivka, who makes the most incredible food I've ever eaten. Fortunately, she doesn't live in our neighborhood, or despite all the running I do, I'd be a chronic overeater.

Some of the best times I've ever had in the kitchen have been when Yaakov and I cook together, and it's typically this impromptu session where we unload the prodigious amount of food he always has on hand, set it out on the counter and decide what to make out of what's there. These meals are created purely from instinct. Odd bits of vegetable are mixed with beaten egg and cheese for a frittata. Leftover cooked fish fillets are diced with some celery, garlic and ginger and re-heated with a leftover grain, and seasoned with soy sauce or Vietnamese fish sauce or that Thai sweet chili sauce I wrote about earlier. Almost anything cooked in broth (there should always be homemade broth in your freezer - never that awful sodium-soaked canned stuff) and pureed becomes soup. Stale bread is cubed, tossed on a baking sheet, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned (I am a big fan of Penzey's Sandwich Sprinkle - it makes the best croutons. Find it at http://www.penzeys.com/ and while you're there, buy a bottle of their Double Strength Vanilla extract and a small container of Vietnamese Cinnamon. Your baking will never be the same and the hefty price is justified by its aromatheraputic side benefit). Back to the stale bread - bake it in a 350 oven until golden brown. You could saute it instead of baking, but my mandate is to be as healthy as I am parsimonious.

One late afternoon, Yaakov and I turned leftover garden salad into a soup, a rice and vegetable dish, a chicken salad made without mayo, but instead with some red seedless grapes, sesame oil and rice wine vinegar, and a frittata. Dessert was some less than perfect fruit that we poached in the microwave in a Ziploc steamer bagand poured over some reheated pound cake that just happened to be in the freezer. Debbie made a fresh salad. There was more food than the three of us could eat, so we called over some friends, opened a bottle of wine and feasted for hours.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

An Hour's Preparation is Worth a Week of Meals

I'll continue to emphasize the importance of having a freezer full of ingredients that you can quickly turn into meals with little prep time. Many people do this by purchasing expensive prepared food. While there's nothing wrong with that once in a while (I'm a devotee of Kashi's frozen entrees, which I buy ONLY when I have double coupons, as well as many of the excellent frozen ethnic dishes that Trader Joe sells ready to microwave). But that sort of behavior isn't very parsimonious, and honestly, wouldn't you rather spend your money on a vacation or on cashmere, or in my case, an Audi A4 convertible?

So find an hour somewhere in your week (I know, I know) to get this prep work out of the way. You will thank me every time you are faced with little fresh food in the fridge, growling stomach(es) and a tight deadline for getting food on the table.

Dried beans
chickpeas and white cannelloni beans are the favorites in my house, but you should buy any type your family likes. Don't bother with name brands - a dried bean is a dried bean. I buy Stop & Shop's dried beans and they cost from .79 to $1.00 for a 1 pound bag. Pour the beans in a large bowl and cover with water and leave them overnight (or do this first thing in the morning and they'll be ready to cook when you get home from work). Drain the water, rinse and put in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then lower the flame and cook until firmly done, but not mushy. Just fish out a couple after 25 minutes and see if they're done to your liking. If not, keep cooking. If ready, drain and let cool. Bag them in Ziploc and freeze until you need.

What are you going to do with them to make a meal?
You already have some pre-cooked pasta in the freezer (see below), so nuke a packet of beans and of pasta. Toss with lots of grated Parmesan cheese, some garlic that you chopped up and sauteed in some olive oil while you were nuking . Throw in any leftover vegetable(s) you have lying around. Add fresh herbs if you have that basil or parsley plant on the windowsill, and plenty of freshly ground pepper. Does it get any easier?

Whole Wheat Pasta
You should feel guilty about eating a lot of regular pasta, but go ahead and eat whole wheat pasta; whole grains are the crux of healthy eating.Whenever you cook some for a meal, cook the entire box. When cool, stick portion-sizes of the pasta in Ziploc and freeze. It will reheat beautifully in the microwave.

Brown Rice
Same as above. I use that 2 qt Pyrex measuring cup to cook large amounts of brown rice in the microwave to have on hand for a quick meal. Put a couple of cups of raw brown rice in the Pyrex and add plenty of water. Cover the Pyrex and microwave for 35 minutes, or until al dente.

Here's a good strategy to have on hand; I had it just last night and it was tasty and comforting in all this rain and gloom (we all needed comfort while watching those Republicans debate).

While the container or brown rice was in the mic, I heated a little oil in a skillet and added some cabbage and shredded carrot I found in the fridge along with a little chopped garlic. If I had ginger, I would have minced some and added it.  Anyway,  use any vegetable you have. (Maybe there's something in the freezer?) I put the rice in a bowl, tossed on the sauteed vegetables, and then fried an egg in the empty skillet. Upend the fried egg onto the rice and vegetables and add some soy sauce, some or Srichacha sauce and/or Trader Joe's inexpensive version of that Thai sweet chili sauce that you scarf down when you order in Thai. Protein, complex carbs and hardly any fat. And obviously, it cost pennies.

Barley
Do the same as you did with the brown rice. One morning when you are tired of microwaving the pancakes you made earlier with soured milk, or of oatmeal, or your yogurt parfait, nuke the cooked barley and and some milk and maple syrup and some fruit, and you will have learned the true meaning of power breakfast. Or add some to pureed vegetable (any kind) and potato and you'll have an almost instant sop - rich and fulfilling and quite bi-partisan. So make some tonight when you watch the President (and the NFL)

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Why Not to Cry Over Spilt or Sour Milk

Spilt milk is worth a metaphorical tear or two; after all, it is wasteful. But using  milk that has soured is a great exercise in re-purposing as a baking ingredient rather than a beverage.

Before you issue a collective "eeew," let me point out that those probiotics you pay extra for exist in FREE abundance in soured milk. Read below:

PROBIOTICS
Throughout history, in all cultures, humans recognized that a total food, such as milk, when fermented, is actually better than a total food, not fermented!

The Micro-Organisms that live in milk add new molecules that enhance the immune system of the host. In addition, since the micro-organisms are new to the immune system, their very presence stimulates the immune system to become stronger and able to defend against other new invaders.

For this reason, in every country in the world we find Fermented Milk, with the many names listed above, and hundreds of other names given by the small groups who use fermented milk.

Medical scientists in the last thirty years became aware of the benefits of Fermented Milk and they attached a Scientific Name to these products PROBIOTICS.
http://drpinna.com/fermented-milk-probiotics-8244


Sour milk and other products that are the result of fermentation contain live bacteria that are helpful, not harmful. Live bacteria, or probiotics, have a long history that dates back to ancient times. The University of Nebraska, Lincoln explains that probiotics strengthen the immune system, reduce the risk of cancer, allergies, diarrhea, stomach ulcers, kidney stones and irritable bowel syndrome. If you are lactose intolerant, consuming sour milk products that contain probiotics will make digestion easier, because the live cultures break up the lactose sugars before they enter your intestines.
Despite the fact that it is alive, sour milk does have an expiration date. Sour milk will begin to spoil if neglected on the counter for several hours. Storing sour milk in an airtight container in the refrigerator will extend its usability. North Dakota State University suggests discarding refrigerated sour milk one to two weeks after preparation.
http://www.livestrong.com/article/463597-will-sour-milk-hurt-you/

Every Sunday morning, my mother would make us pancakes from scratch using the milk that had soured during the week. For the record, there is no excuse for buying those expensive and chemical additive-laden pancake mixes, when it takes only a minute to make your own. You can find a recipe on the web, or use this simple one:

Measure 1 cup of whole wheat flour into your Pyrex 2 qt measuring bowl
http://www.amazon.com/Pyrex-Prepware-1-Quart-Measuring-Measurements/dp/B0000CFMZP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315409059&sr=8-1

Add a 1/2 teaspoon each of baking powder and baking soda, along with 1 beaten egg (or 1/4 cup of egg yolks leftover from your frittata or egg white omelet) and 1 1/2 cups of sour milk. A teaspoon of vanilla only improves matters, as does a too soft banana or blueberries. Mix it up and pour onto a hot griddle to cook.You'll notice that I didn't add any sugar - why? You're just going to pour maple syrup on it, so why waste calories? (And please, use real maple syrup, not that awful pancake syrup with maple flavor added. The real thing costs more but tastes great, and true parsimony is about knowing when spending a lot of money is the right thing to do).

Here's what I do: freeze any leftover pancake in Ziploc bags as individual servings. On a busy morning, I can microwave them for a fast and yummy breakfast. Last weekend, Bev and Maxie joined us for a spur-of-the moment breakfast, and all I had to do was remove some pancake packets from the freezer and we were gobbling them up 2 minutes later, along with some fresh coffee and (for me) soy bacon.






Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/463597-will-sour-milk-hurt-you/#ixzz1XHPcmJct

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Tools to Enable Your Parsimony

A reader gently chided me for not having started off this blog with what foodies (including myself) refer to as the batterie de cuisine, or, in the plain language I sometimes eschew, tools for cooking. She's right - I should have provided this list the day we started, so let me rectify this omission now.

I've mentioned a few of these already, but I'll elaborate.

Immersion Stick Blender
This falls under the heading of "what did I ever do before I had this?" Yes, you could use the food processor that you got as a wedding gift, but that involves transferring stuff from one container to another, which involves more cleaning up; I urge you to avoid unnecessary work and save your energy for important matters, like opening a nice bottle of wine to keep you company while you get dinner on the table and help you block out the sound of your kids asking for homework help or your S.O. asking when dinner will be ready. But I digress. Buy yourself one of these indispensible gadgets; Cuisinarts makes a basic model as well as one with many highly useful additions for chopping small amounts and whipping stuff. Using the immersion blender transforms the soup you're making into something really professional looking in no time, right in the pot you were using to cook it in, anyhow.

Very large Pyrex measuring bowl
Pyrex makes a 2 quart (that's 8 cups) size measuring cup that's actually a bowl and is far more useful as a bowl than for measuring. Plus, it has a spout, making pouring what's in it into serving bowls or Ziploc containers spill proof. You'll use it in the microwave to get food on the table fast. You've seen me use it for making soup in NO TIME. I also scrape the roasted apples into it so I can beat them into applesauce and add cinnamon and sweetner (if I think it needs to be sweeter, although it rarely does. But that's a matter of personal taste). It's great for making pancake or cake batter, too, because of the pouring spout.

Parchment Paper
Use this, and washing up becomes a thing of the past, most of the time. Just line cookie sheets or roasting pans with it and you toss it out and rarely have to wash. Things don't stick to it, which is why professional bakers line their cake pans and sheets with it.

Chinese Grocery Store Skimmer

I've bought the larger one for a couple of my friends (comments about how great these are from you guys would be useful to the others) and they both found it highly useful. You can find it in a grocery store in all Chinatowns, even though it says "made in japan" on the handle. You can make chicken or beef stock in large amounts and use the large one to effortlessly clean the broth of all impurities. The mesh is so fine that even liquid fat doesnt get through. Since it's stainless steel, it cleans very easily.
In another posting, I'll discuss the importance of having containers of stock on hand, and this particular tool will be a featured, time-saving player.

Ziploc containers
No, I don't get a kickback from S.C. Johnson (yet), but these are great to have. They're not expensive, like Rubbermaid or Tupperware, but they let you freeze any overabundance from your kitchen, allowing you to take full advantage of market bargains. Or maybe you got lucky and went produce picking and have more peaches or zucchini than you can eat this week. I buy some extra before every holiday as I love sending my kids and friends home with leftovers because 1) I love them and, 2) I have been known to eat leftovers standing in front of the fridge at 3:15 AM, so giving food away is a form of self protection.

Please do comment - remember my intention was to create a community of cooks, not just to blather on and on. I'll keep blathering, but someone write back!

Monday, September 5, 2011

Cauliflower Sheds its Bland Boredom & Develops Sensual Appeal

What's more boring than cauliflower? It's the plain vanilla of the vegetable world. Its very presence on your table defies the serve colorful food "nutrition rule. But the secret to making cauliflower a culinary standout is to roast it, and once again, here's where you will benefit from buying less-than-perfect heads of this cruciferious vegetable. Cauliflower typically retails for $2-3 a head, but I've paid as little as .79 for a large head just because it had a few brown spots on top. Buy it anyway, so long as the remainder of the head is firm and fresh-looking.

Trim off those bad spots with a small paring knife, then either slice the head into thick slabs, or remove the florets and cut them into pieces. I go for which ever method gets the job done more quickly. Spread a sheet of parchment paper on your cookie sheet and place a single layer of the cauliflower slices on it. Drizzle with olive oil and roast in a very high oven - from 400 to 425 - until the caulifower is golden and sizzling.

I'm such a glutton for freshly roasted cauliflower that it's hard for me not to gobble it up right off the cookie sheet (Emily is the same way!), but do try to save enough for this very yummy and healthy meal:

Roasted Cauliflower with Whole Wheat Penne

First of all, you don't have to use penne - use any size or shape pasta you have around. But make sure it's whole wheat, because its slightly nutty flavor complements the vegetable beautifully. Cook the pasta al dente, drain all but a little of the cooking water, and toss with the roasted cauliflower. Sprinkle on some really good, high quality (and yes, expensive) freshly grated parmesan cheese, and if you are like my friend Yaakov, you have a basil plant sitting on your kitchen table, so you'll break off a sprig or two and toss that in as well. Lots of fresh ground pepper, and you have a very quick and wonderful meal.

If you want to make this dish a complete protein, toss in a handful of chickpeas as well.

Another great use for roasted cauliflower is to use Mark Bittman's recipe from The New York Times back in April 2009. It is unusual and a real treat.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/221mrex.html?ref=dining

One note: you know I advocate preparing large batches of whatever I have on hand and freezing what I'm not using immediately. Roasted cauliflower just doesn't recover well from having been frozen, so if you have lots and lots of it left over from the pasta dish (you should be so lucky),quickly microwave a small potato and puree the cauliflower and potato with your Cuisinarts immersion blender. A little mild curry powder is a nice addition. Thin it with some vegetable broth, and freeze your little dividend of creamy cauliflower soup. That's a lot to get from some inexpensive produce.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Being a Parsimonious Gourmet is More a State of Mind Than a Structure

Maureen posted a comment asking why I don't include recipes on the blog. Its a good question, so I'll explain why I focus on technique rather than recipes.
First of all, recipes often stifle creativity, especially among people who don't think of themselves as cooks. Following specific directions is fairly simple - you don't have to be an instinctive cook to get good results.

Instead of providing recipes - there are already hundreds of thousands of recipes in cyber space - my focus is on getting you to adopt a thrifty sensibility about buying food as well as preparing it. Take a look at what's available and then decide what you might want to make from it. That was the idea behind the post about the less-than-perfect produce. Obviously, I'm not advocating that you buy spoiled food; rather, come to understand that there are different uses for different types of food.

When you want to eat fresh fruit, or make a salad brimming with crisp, flavorful vegetables, you should buy the freshest produce available; it's worth the cost and worth the effort to buy locally grown, superior quality food. But excellent results can be achieved in creating soups, sauces, cooked desserts and many other dishes by using unspoiled but not "raw-worthy" produce. Think about how many times you've tossed items from the fridge that hadn't spoiled, but you didn't think still had utility. The Parsimonious Gourmet responds differently to nature's bounty, accepting it in its various stages for what it can yield.

So, instead of focusing on recipes, think about what's salvagable. Here is today's idea to inspire your own creativity:

Roast just about any type of produce
Sure,you can turn soft fruit into a pie or a cobbler - and I do it when company's coming or when I am contributing to pot luck meals with friends - but that's a fattening solution, especially if you do it often. Instead, use what's on hand, either in the fridge or in the market.

Preheat the oven to 400 and then line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. You can find it in any grocery store alongside the plastic wrap and aluminium foil. (I use Reynolds Parchment paper; go to www.reynolds.com/ for coupons), or get these from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Parchment-Sheet-Pan-Liners/dp/B00086IB5C/ref=sr_1_9?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1315073003&sr=1-9
 Using parchment to line the cookie sheet accomplishes two things - you won't have to wash it when you're done, and the produce won't stick to its surface. Cut out any bad parts, slice the produce and roast it until it has dehyrated and is golden brown.

These photos give you an idea of how easy this is








Roasted Applesauce is a great example of this technique when you find yourself with lots of bruised apples. Go ahead and use a mixture of apple varieties, or just one type. Wash the apples, but don't peel them! Takes way too much time, and besides, the nutritive value of the apple is in and right under the peel. Cut out any bad spots, and place the apple on a cutting board and slice it on four sides; that way, you won't even have to core it. Don't try to be uniform - just get as much apple off the core as you can without spending too much time. Toss the slices on the cookie sheet and roast for about 10 minutes, or until they are cooked, but not not burned. Scrape them into a bowl and either blend with your immersion blender or just mash it up with a large spoon. You can sweeten it with honey, sugar or Splenda, or not at all. Roasting the fruit concentrates the natural sugar in produce, so it's probably sweet enough without adding anything other than a few shakes of ground cinnamon. Incidentally, make as much applesauce as you have apples; it freezes beautifully, and then you can microwave the container and have warm applesauce whenever you want it. Real comfort food, and healthy!

While we're at it, this is a good time to plug the Cuisinarts immersion blender. It's indispensible for making Parsimonious Gourmet soups, and whips your applesauce into creamy submission. I can't live without mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-CSB-76BC-SmartStick-200-Watt-Immersion/dp/B000EGA6QI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315072853&sr=8-1

Next post, well talk about what you can do with roasted cauliflower - and I promise you it will be way better than anything else you could do with this otherwise boring vegetable.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Frittata

Last night's soup turned out perfectly - tasted rich and creamy, but had virtually no fat, since the Greek yogurt garnish was fat-free. It tasted purely of tomato and was a nice summer treat. After Emily and I each had a bowl, there was plenty to freeze for other meals. Using less than perfect tomatoes meant that each serving of soup cost about $0.20 and only 5 minutes of time.


Let's talk about frittata since it is a technique that every parsimonious gourmet should have up his or her sleeve. Frittata uses nearly any less-than-perfect vegetable you may find at the produce market, but gets its protein from eggs, which are a great, inexpensive source of protein. Heres the technique:

Use a skillet that can sit atop the stove and also go in the oven under the broiler. I've had a wonderful one from Calphalon that I received as a wedding gift, so I've had it for nearly 30 years; it's developed a nice patina from years of use.

Place the pan over a medium flame and heat enough olive oil to thoroughly coat the bottom. I use a Spanish extra-virgin oil that I buy at Trader Joes since it is flavorful and less expensive than the Italian oils. Next, slice some potato very thin and place the slices in a single layer in the pan, letting them get golden brown. Then, chop up any vegetables you have on hand: mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes (just squeeze them gently over the sink first - it's called seeding them - so their liquid won't make the frittata mushy. Anyway, broccoli, asparagus, or spinach are also good choices. Let what's available dictate what you use. Toss the vegetables in and saute for a few minutes, taking care not to disturb the potato layer.

Now, beat up some eggs in a bowl. I always leave out at least half of the yolks to save on calories, but you don't have to. Just DON'T thow out the yolks - that's not very frugal! - you can save them in one of those Ziploc containers until you want to bake something. One-quarter cup of egg yolk equals one whole egg.

Pour the beaten eggs over the vegetables and let the eggs set over a medium flame. If you have some basil or parsley, you can toss it on now. When the eggs are not quite done. Sprinkle a LOT of parmesan cheese over the top and slide the entire pan under the broiler. Watch it carefully so that it doesn't burn, and remove it in 2-3 minutes.

Let the frittata sit a few minutes, then place a larger serving plate over the pan and flip it over. Frittata is a great summer dinner or a nice brunch any time of year, along side some crusty bread and a nice glass of wine. I always pour a glass of seyval blanc from Clinton Vineyards because it's not only light and delicious, but the winery is run by my aunt Phyllis Feder. Check it out at http://www.clintonvineyards.com/.

I can't find the exact same pan that I use, but this one listed on Amazon will work equally well:
<iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=theparsgour-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B0007IN64M"